T-360 Rev E

Section 4

TROUBLESHOOTING

4.1         DIESEL ENGINE

4.1.1              Engine Will Not Start

Table 4–1  Engine Will Not Start

Condition

Possible Cause

Remedy/Reference Section

Starter motor will not crank or low cranking speed

Battery insufficiently charged

Charge

Battery terminal post or battery defective

Check

Electrical connections at starter are bad

Correct

Starter motor malfunctions

Section 4.1.4

Starter motor solenoid defective

Engine Manual

Open starting circuit

Section 4.1.5

Incorrect grade of lubricating oil

Section 2.10

Fuse F5 is bad

Replace

 

 

 

Starter motor cranks, but fails to start

No fuel in tank

Section 2.9/Section 2.10.

Air inside the fuel system

Section 5.4.1

Water inside the fuel system

Drain Sump

Plugged fuel filters

Replace

Air intake heater is bad

Section 5.4.14

Low oil / oil pressure switch defective

Section 5.4.7

Faulty heater switch

Section 5.4.15

Plugged fuel lines to injector(s)

Engine Manual

Mechanical lift fuel pump malfunction

Engine Manual

Fuses F1, F2, F3, F4 are bad

Check/ replace

Loose or no connection between wire harness and Electronic Governor Module (EG)

Check/correct

 

 

 

Starter cranks and engages, but dies after a few seconds

Engine lube oil too heavy

Section Section 2.10.

Voltage drop in starter cable(s)

Check

4.1.2              Engine Starts Then Stops

Table 4–2  Engine Starts Then Stops

Condition

Possible Cause

Remedy/Reference Section

Engine stops after a few rotations

No fuel in tank

Section 2.9/Section 2.10.

Intake heater switch not held long enough

Hold switch

Fuel filter restricted

Replace

Air cleaner or hose restricted

Section 5.4.12

Engine crankcase breather or hose restricted

Section 5.4.13

Safety device open

Section 2.8

Open wiring circuit to fuel solenoid

Check

Fuel solenoid defective

Replace

Fuel supply restricted

Section 2.10,Section 5.4.2, and Section 5.4.3

Mechanical lift fuel pump malfunction

Engine Manual

Low oil / oil pressure switch defective

Section 5.4.8

Leak in fuel system

Check

Injector nozzle(s) defective

Engine Manual

Injection pump defective

Engine Manual

Generator internal overloads open

Table 2–3

4.1.3              Engine Will Not Shut Off

Table 4–3  Engine Will Not Shut Off

Condition

Possible Cause

Remedy/Reference Section

Engine will not shut off

Loose ground connection

Clean/Tighten

Improperly seated fuel solenoid

Correct

4.1.4              Starter Motor Malfunction

Table 4–4  Starter Motor Malfunction

Condition

Possible Cause

Remedy/Reference Section

Starter motor will not crank or turns slowly

Battery insufficiently charged

Charge

Battery cable connections loose or oxidized

Check/Replace

Battery cables defective

Check/Replace

Starter brushes shorted out

Engine Manual

Starter brushes hang up, defective or have no con­tact

Engine Manual

Starter solenoid damaged

Engine Manual

Ignition switch defective

Replace

Engine lube oil too heavy

Table 2.10.

 

 

 

Starter motor turns, but pinion does not engage

Pinion or ring gear obstructed or worn

Engine Manual

 

 

 

Starter motor does not disengage af­ter switch has been released

Ignition switch is bad

Check/Replace

Starter motor solenoid is bad

Engine Manual

 

 

 

Pinion does not disengage after en­gine is running

Starter is bad

Engine Manual

4.1.5              Malfunction In The Engine Starting Circuit

Table 4–5  Malfunction In The Engine Starting Circuit

Condition

Possible Cause

Remedy/Reference Section

No power to starter motor solenoid

Battery defective

Correct

Loose electrical connections

Tighten

 

 

 

Fuel solenoid does not energize or does not remain energized

Battery defective

Correct

Loose electrical connections

Tighten

Oil pressure switch defective

Section 1.9

Water temperature safety switch open

Section 1.9

Fuel solenoid defective

Engine Manual

Intake heater switch is bad

Check (Engine Manual)

Electronic Governor Module (EG) is bad

Replace (Section 5.4.15)

Check/Replace

 

 

 

Intake heater does not energize

Intake heater switch is bad

Section 5.4.15

Timer is bad

Section 5.4.15

Heater element is bad

Section 5.4.15

Heater relay is bad

Section 5.4.15

4.1.6              Miscellaneous Engine Troubleshooting

Table 4–6  Miscellaneous Engine Troubleshooting

Condition

Possible Cause

Remedy/Reference Section

Loss of power

Restriction in air cleaner

Section 5.4.12

Air in fuel system

Section 5.4.1

Air vent restricted

Clean

Restricted fuel lines

Engine Manual

Fuel injection pump is bad

Engine Manual

Injector(s) bad or incorrect type used

Engine Manual

Incorrect fuel injection pump timing

Engine Manual

Incorrect valve timing

Engine Manual

Poor compression

Engine Manual

 

 

 

Vibration

Engine shockmounts are bad

Replace

Poor compression

Engine Manual

 

 

 

Overheating

Restriction in air cleaner

Section 5.4.12

Exhaust pipe restriction

Remove

Restriction in water jacket

Engine Manual

Restriction in radiator

Section 5.4.5

Coolant level too low

Section 2.10.

Loose water pump/alternator poly V-belt

Section 5.4.11

Thermostat is bad

Engine Manual

Water pump is bad

Engine Manual

 

 

 

Excessive crankcase pressure

Plugged crankcase breather line

Section 5.4.13

4.2         BATTERY CHARGER (SOLID STATE)

Table 4–7  Battery Charger (Solid State)

Condition

Possible Cause

Remedy/Reference Section

CB4 trips when charger is turned on

Short in 12-volt wiring causing overload of charger

Locate and remove short or replace char­ger

 

 

 

Circuit breaker trips repeatedly, even when not connected

Internal short

Replace charger

 

 

 

Charger does not taper back after charging for a few minutes

Bad cell in battery

Test battery for defect according to bat­tery manufacturer’s instructions

 

Charger is bad

Replace

 

 

 

Charger does not charge

Open BCF3, BCF4, or BCF5

Replace

Charger is not receiving AC input

Use voltmeter to confirm charger is re­ceiving 360−500 VAC. If not, check input connections/fuses.

Charger output is not connected to 12 volt battery

Check output wiring connections to bat­tery.

Charger is bad

Replace

 

 

 

Low output voltage measured across charger output

Battery not connected to charger. It is normal to measure 12 volts or less across charger output with no battery connected

Check charging leads from charger to battery

 

 

 

Reverse polarity connection to bat­tery has caused charger to stop charging

Internal DC fuse blown and possible damage to current carrying components

Replace

4.3         ALTERNATING CURRENT GENERATOR

Table 4–8  Alternating Current Generator

Condition

Possible Cause

Remedy/Reference Section

No voltage

Loss of rotor magnetism

Replace

Circuit breaker tripped

Check CB1

Open in stator windings

Replace

Short circuited

Replace

Worn drive gear stripped

Check/Replace

Contactor not engaged

Replace

 

 

 

Low voltage

Low engine speed

Section 5.4.9

High resistance connections - connections are warm or hot

Tighten

Loss of rotor magnetism

Replace

 

 

 

Fluctuating voltage (May be indicat­ed by flickering lights)

Fluctuating speed

Section 5.4.9

Irregular speed of engine

Engine Manual

Loose terminal or load connections

Tighten

Bad bearing causing uneven air gap

Replace

 

 

 

High voltage

Excessive engine speed

Section 5.4.9

 

 

 

Overheating

Generator overloaded

Check

Clogged vents/baffles

Check/Clean

High temperature surrounding generator

Section 5.4.5

Insufficient air circulation or recirculation

Check/Clean

Unbalanced load

Balance

Dry bearing

Replace

 

 

 

Mechanical Noise

Bad bearing

Replace

Rotor rubbing on stator

Replace

Loose laminations

Replace

Loose or misaligned coupling

Check drive gear

 

 

 

Generator frame produces shock when touched

Static charge

Check ground to frame

Grounded armature of field coil

Replace

4.4         AUTO RE-START OPTION

Table 4–9  Auto Re-Start Option

Condition

Possible Cause

Remedy/Reference Section

When the Ignition switch is placed in the RUN position, nothing happens− no lights illuminate

Wait 30 seconds for intake heater to be activated

Wait

Coolant level below the low coolant sensor

1.10.j

Relay defective

Check/Replace

Ignition switch defective

Check/Replace Switch

3 amp Fuse is bad

Check and Replace Fuse

Loose connector on module

Tighten connector

Auto restart module is bad

Check for 12 volts at Pin 4/Replace mod­ule

Miswired connectors

Check/Correct wiring

 

 

 

Alarm sounds, but engine does not crank

No voltage at Pin 2 of the connector

Trace/Correct

Check Starter Solenoid

Section 4.1.1

Auto restart module is bad

Replace module

 

 

 

Engine starts, but the starter does not disengage

Speed Sensor wiring loose

Check/Correct

Speed Sensor is bad

Replace

Auto restart module is bad

Replace module

 

 

 

Engine starts, but shuts down from over speed

Electronic Governor Module (EG) is bad

Replace

 

 

 

Engine cranks, but will not start

Electronic Governor Module (EG) is bad

Replace

Section 4.1.1 

Section 4.1.1

 

 

 

Engine starts, but shuts down on low oil

Section 4.1.2

Section 4.1.2

 

 

 

Engine starts, but shuts down on high water temperature

Section 4.1.6

Section 4.1.6 

4.5         ELECTRONIC GOVERNOR MODULE

Table 4–10  Electronic Governor Modules

Fault

LED flash code

Possible Cause

Engine Over Speed: more than 2,530 RPM

One Long–One Short

ESS or mechanical engine problem

 

 

 

Actuator Wiring Disconnection. No signal from ESS for 2 seconds after RPM is greater than 1,000 RPM for 10 seconds, OR for 5 seconds while engine cranking (no voltage at EG pin 18).

Two Long–One Short

Short ESS or wiring problem

 

 

 

Speed Sensor Disconnection. Fuel/speed actuator (FS) wiring discon­nected or open circuit. Coil Resis­tance Spec: 2.8 ohm +/- 10%.

Two Long–Three Short

FS or wiring problem

 

 

 

EG supply voltage is greater than 26V.

Two Long–Seven Short

EG or alternator problem

4.6         VOLTAGE CONTROLLER

The voltage controller has one green indicator light and one yellow indicator light. When the green light is illumi­nated, it means that the voltage controller is receiving power. During normal operations the yellow light is continu­ously blinking at a one Hz rate. If there is a problem then the yellow light will blink at various rates depending upon the fault. Refer to the chart below to determine the fault.

Table 4–11  Voltage Controller

Green LED

Fault

Possible Cause/Remedy

LED not illuminated

No power to the voltage controller

Contactor failed

Check line side power on contactors

Yellow LED flash Code

Fault

Possible Cause/Remedy

One Long–Two Short

Voltage Controller Fault

Failed voltage controller, replace

 

 

 

One Long–Three Short

Over Voltage Error

Engine speed, check

 

 

 

One Long–Four Short

Under Voltage Error

Engine speed, check

 

 

 

One Long–Five Short

Hot Start Error

Reset power to the unit

 

 

 

One Long–Six Short

Voltage Controller Fault

Failed voltage controller, replace

 

 

 

One Long–Seven Short

Voltage Controller Fault

Failed voltage controller, replace

4.7         High VOLTAGE Circuit

Electrical troubleshooting for high voltage control circuit

Before proceeding with the troubleshooting, make sure to follow your company’s standard safety procedures for working with electrical components.

ITEM

CHECKS

POTENTIAL CAUSE

Receptacle (R)

Check output voltage at Receptacle R (L1−L2, L2−L3, L1−L3) (50Hz: 360 − 460 VAC, and 60Hz: 400 − 500 VAC)

Faulty Receptacle (Replace)

High Voltage Wires (from Circuit Breaker to Receptacle)

Check if wires/terminals are connected (Check Continuity for each leg)

Loose connections (Tighten)

Circuit Breaker (CB)

Test the output power from Circuit Breaker CB (21−22, 22−23, 21−23)

Faulty Circuit Breaker (Replace), Circuit Breaker (CB) is in the OFF position

Verify Circuit Breaker (CB) is in the ON position

Test the input power to the Circuit Breaker CB (11−12, 12−13, 11−13)

High Voltage Wires (from Primary and Boost Contactors to Circuit Breaker, Voltage Controller, Fuse Blocks, Generator, and Battery Charger)

Check if wires/terminals are connected (Check Continuity for each leg)

Loose connections (Tighten)

Primary (P) or Boost (B) Contactor

Visually verify Primary (P) or Boost (B) Contactor is energized (wait 10−20 seconds after start−up)

Faulty Contactor/Faulty Voltage Control­ler/Faulty Fuses/Faulty Generator (Re­place)

Test the output voltage from Primary (P) or Boost (B) Contactor (L1−L2, L2−L3, L1−L3) (50Hz: 360 − 460 VAC, and 60Hz: 400 − 500 VAC)

Test the input voltage to Primary (P) or Boost (B) Contactor (T1−T2, T2−T3, T1−T3) (300 − 600 VAC)

Test Voltage between terminals A1−A2 of Contac­tors. Engaged contactor (Primary or Boost) shall be supplied with ~24VDC; Dis−engaged 0VDC.

if Not, check 24VDC circuit/Faulty Volt­age Controller (Replace)if Not, check 24VDC circuit/Faulty Voltage Controller (Replace)

Voltage Controller (VC) and Fuses

Verify VCF6 Fuse is not blown (Check Continuity for each leg across fuse, outside of circuit; inside of circuit if not running)

Blown Fuse (Replace)

Verify VCF7 Fuse is not blown (Check Continuity for each leg across fuse, outside of circuit; inside of circuit if not running)

Blown Fuse (Replace)

Verify VCF1 Fuse is not blown (Check Continuity for each leg across fuse, outside of circuit; inside of circuit if not running)

Blown Fuse (Replace)

Verify VCF2 Fuse is not blown (Check Continuity for each leg across fuse, outside of circuit; inside of circuit if not running)

Blown Fuse (Replace)

Verify Voltage Controller has power (powered by high voltage) − verify green light is illuminated

Faulty Voltage Controller, Blown VCF6 or VCF7 Fuse, Loose connections, Faulty Generator (Replace and tighten)

Verify Voltage Controller has green light illuminated and yellow light flashing at 1 Hz (Yellow light flash­ing sequence other than at 1 Hz indicates a fault condition)

One Long–Two Short = Voltage Control­ler Fault (Failed voltage controller, re­place)

One Long–Three Short = Over Voltage Error (Engine speed, check)

One Long–Four Short = Under Voltage Error (Engine speed, check)

One Long–Five Short = Hot Start Error (Reset power to the unit)

One Long–Six Short = Voltage Controller Fault (Failed voltage controller, replace)

One Long–Seven Short = Voltage Con­troller Fault (Failed voltage controller, re­place)

Verify that the Connectors to the Voltage Controller are secured (Snapped in place and do not easily pull out)

Check if the connectors are pushed in all the way

Remove connectors and inspect terminal pin insertion depth (all the same)

Check to see if wires/terminals are con­nected (Check)

Primary (P) or Boost (B) Contactor

Visually verify Primary (P) or Boost (B) Contactor is energized (wait 10−20 seconds after start−up)

Faulty Contactor/Faulty Voltage Control­ler/Faulty Fuses/Faulty Generator (Re­place)

Test the output voltage from Primary (P) or Boost (B) Contactor (L1−L2, L2−L3, L1−L3) (50Hz: 360 − 460 VAC, and 60Hz: 400 − 500 VAC)

Test the input voltage to Primary (P) or Boost (B) Contactor (T1−T2, T2−T3, T1−T3) (300 − 600 VAC)

Test Voltage between terminals A1−A2 of Contac­tors. Engaged contactor (Primary or Boost) shall be supplied with ~24VDC; Dis− engaged 0VDC.

if Not, check 24VDC circuit/Faulty Volt­age Controller (Replace)

 

  
 
 

 

Table of Contents

Index

Glossary

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